Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Days 23 and 24 - Yellowstone: Part 1



The best thing one can do when it’s raining 
is to let it rain
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow


After 3 weeks we’ve arrived to the granddaddy of national parks, Yellowstone.  Everyone prior to setting sail, told me I’d love this place.  I was skeptical, not generally preferring the beaten path.  I can happily admit I was wrong to feel this way.  This place is nature’s freak show.  A menagerie of sites, all wrapped into one park.  Mountains, rivers, lakes, hot springs, geysers, elk, bison, moose, grizzlies, wolves, meadows, waterfalls, canyons, crazy rock formations of every color.  All of these collected together on top of a megavolcano, and not some Syfy channel movie, I’m talking giant volcano that is 60,000 years past due to erupt and when it does it’ll take out half of the US.  So let’s get started on this two parter.



When I last left you we were heading out from Crater Lake.  The drive was over 800 miles to Yellowstone.  We had the option of driving all day and then setting up camp at night, but knowing how not fun that would be, we opted to stop in Idaho Falls about 2 hours west of the park.  The drive was long, but Oregon was a beautiful state.  The majority of its eastern side is desert, but pretty desert, not New Mexico desert.  Along the way I used Hotels.com to find us a cheap hotel and we lucked out with one for $75 at the Shilo Inn.  It ended up being one of the best hotels yet.  We showered off our camp grime and then stopped at Jaker’s Bar and Grill for some appetizers and their own brewed beer.

The next day we made the final drive to Yellowstone.  We first stopped in West Yellowstone, stocked up on food and headed in.  The 4 toll entrance was an omen that this would be a crowded park.  The entrance had a list of campgrounds that had vacancies, so our first job was to find a place to stay.  The first campground had filled when we got there, so we decided to head north to a less crowded section.  As always we got one of the last sites, set up camp and then headed to do the northern loop of the park.  Our first stop was the Mammoth Hot Springs, an area of calcium carbonate terraces with bubbling water.  We got a few glimpses of them before the promised afternoon shower started up.  As the rain poured, we saw that the eastern sky looked brighter so we decided to head that direction to the canyon.



Now along the way we were hoping to see some of wildlife this park is known for, but there seemed to be nothing.  We drove around peering into the meadows and forests for signs of life.  Like the visitors in Jurassic Park, we’d have to wait a little bit longer.  Our first bison siting was in the parking lot, but the thing looked half-dead, so we did not get too excited.  Our second was in the road.  We stopped at the Canyon Visitor Center and got a recommendation for an easy 3 mile loop hike along the South Rim of the Canyon for views of the canyon, and upper and lower Yellowstone Falls.  The beginning and middle sections of the hike had parking lots so that people could drive to two of the viewpoints.


We parked at the upper falls and then made our way along the rim of the canyon.  The water fall was impressive, a powerful one with white water rapids above it and a cloud of mist below it.  The crowds were rough but once we got on the path things thinned out.  The canyon is nothing compared to the canyons visited earlier but it was unique in that it was a mix of yellow and white stone with occasional sections of smooth pink stone.  The middle section gave us a view of Artists Point, an area that took in the river, canyon and Upper Falls in the distance, but this area was crowded.  Along the way we met 3 ladies from Cherry Hill New Jersey on a 3 week road trip.  We chatted briefly and then went along their way.  We met up with them a little later on the hike once we had entered the section where no one was going and they seemed lost.  We looked over the maps and figured out the route and then lost them as we tend to hike faster.



This part of the hike lead along part of the rim but then headed into a forest and meadow section with random clearings with fumaroles (steam vents), mudpots (waterless hot springs with bubbling mud) and hot springs.  The air in this area smells like sulfur, a smell I’m sure made our New Jersey hiking friends are familiar with (If you’re keeping a tally I’ve now insulted New Jersey twice, LA once, and Pittsburgh once).  This would have been the highlight of the hike but the first siting of a giant bison walking through one of the springs just 50 feet away got our attention.  This would be the first a few we would see.  During one of the stops at a hot spring I also caught site of a Moose in the forest.  All of the stopping for pictures allowed the Jersey girls to catch up.  They too had seen our bison friends, but were a little more concerned with how close they were.  They asked to join us, as if we could protect them from these beasts.



Now I did not mention that during this hike, dark clouds were positioning themselves overhead rather quickly.  We still had about a mile and half to go when the thunder and lightning started.  The 5 of us walked together swiftly but were stopped suddenly by a 2000 lb road block.  We had come across a herd of bison scattered throughout the forest, grazing the meadows and using our path as their own.  I had seen just one sign recommending staying 25 yards from all wild life (100 yards from the dangerous wildlife), but I had somehow not read up on bison behavior and safety.  All that was going through my mind was scenes from When Nature Attacks.  The bison did not seem concerned about our need to get back to our cars before the flood gates opened.  So we tiptoed around them as if they were T-rexes unable to see us if we moved slowly enough.  The bison were pretty good a hiding too because every once in a while we’d turn a corner and there would be one just 20 ft to our side. 



We finally made it of the forest to an open meadow just in time for the rain, the cold torrential down pour kind of rain.  The last half mile was spent running through a meadow with no cover as lightning struck around us.  We survived and got to the car.  A rainbow at the end of the hike was our only consolation, but I must say that was one fun hike, I almost asked if we could do it again.  We headed back to our campsite to make dinner over the fire as quickly as possible as the clouds were now positioning themselves overhead.  We grilled some chicken and asparagus.  The rain held out for us to sit down eat and watch an amazing lightning show in the distance.  There was a slight chance we’d get missed, but the winds changed direction and blew it all towards us.  We spent the rest of the night in the car watching the hail, lightning and rain come down until it finally ended and we got to bed to get ready for tomorrows adventure.


TO BE CONTINUED….


Stats:
Miles Driven: 6585
States: PA, MD, WV, VA, TN, NC, AL, MS, LA, TX, NM, AZ, UT, NV, CA, OR, ID, MT, WY
National Parks: 13
Miles Hiked: 55
Animals Sited: Bison (13), Elk (7), Moose (1)
Shortest Distance Between Us and Bison: 20 ft

PS.  On our drive back we were going through some of the pamphlets were got when entering the park and this was in there…


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